Sunday Salon, October 28, 2007

The Sunday Salon is an informal "reading circle" where a group of willing individuals discuss their readings. You can read more at http://dhamel.typepad.com/sundaysalon/ . I wanted to get something in for the first week, so I threw something together pretty quickly; excuse the roughness. I think this will be fun.

Osman's Dream: The History of the Ottoman Empire: Books
Caroline Finkel

Osman’s Dream is a one volume history of the Ottoman Empire. The book is a much needed antidote to the West’s Eurocentric historical view. Like many people who are not Middle East specialists, our perceptions of the Ottoman Empire are filtered through histories of their adversaries and their relationship to the West. We learned that the Ottomans were the people who finally lay to rest the rump of the Roman Empire with their conquest of Byzantine Constantinople. They were the people whose empire was itself finally defeated by WWI. Osman’s Dream demonstrates conclusively that the Ottoman Empire is worthy of our attention in its own right.

Finkel’s treatment of the Ottomans does not ignore Europe, rather it does provides a nuanced analysis of the often complicated and contradictory set of relationships between the Empire their western counterparts. The book’s major strength, however, is its detailed description of the relationships within the empire. Finkel’s periodization is natural and dictated by the political and social forces native to the Ottomans, not artificial western models.

Like any book that tries to relate 800 years of history in a relatively short book (600+ pages), there are some glosses. Especially missed was a detailed description of the relationship between the highest levels of the bureaucracy and the middle. A greater attention to the cultural achievements of the Ottomans would also have been welcome.

Osman’s Dream is a great book to introduce a non-specialist to the Ottoman Empire. With the general knowledge gained by reading this book, the interested layman could easily move on to more specialized histories or reinterpret western histories, such as Norwich’s A short History of Byzantium.

Rome Day 2- July 25

I ran into a guy from NY who told me that you can get a bus to the Vatican and a day pass for only €4 for unlimited rides. Sounds like a good deal and easier on the legs, so I negotiate a purchase from a little convenience store down the street from the hotel and head to the Vatican.
I take a side trip to the Pantheon, which is stunning. It gives you a real sense of the power and technique of Roman engineering. It has been converted to a church dedicated to the Christian martyrs, so there is little of the original there. The kings Victor Emmanuel II and Umberto I are buried there. There is very little of the original building left, I believe even the marble work is not original, but the overall structure is amazing and I guess we have to thank the church for preserving it.

I took another bus from the Pantheon to the Vatican. I did the obligatory wander through St. Peter’s square. I took a walk through the Vatican Grotto, where they bury the popes. The sarcophagi for many of the dead popes are impressive; several were reused Roman or medieval tombs. The tomb of John Paul II is simple in comparison, just a marble slab with his name. There was quite a large crowd hanging out there. Some praying on their knees on the hard marble floor, some passing rosaries to the guards (his was the only tomb guarded) to touch the floor.

Also in the Grotto is the “Tomb of St. Peter.” I believe they found the original tomb, with the body, not all that long ago. It is by far the most ornate; beautiful marble work, but covered in glass. I snuck a picture but I doubt it will come out.

The line through security had grown exponentially while I was in the Grotto, so I decided against going into St. Peter’s proper and headed to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. I had to leave Vatican City and walk around the walls to the other side of the city, which was long but worth it.

One piece of advice—Do not assume that if a sign is directing you to something in the Vatican, that you are heading in the right direction or are even reasonably close.

The Vatican Museum costs €13 to enter, but worth every penny. The art gallery was incredible. The range of the pieces and the beauty of them is really beyond description. I saw my first Di Vinci up close and personal. I was told by one guard that no photography was allowed, but another, half way through the gallery said it was OK, as long as there was no flash, so I went to town.
After the gallery, I headed toward the Sistine Chapel, which is at the end of a maze of rooms, all of which were impressive. On the way, I saw Raphael’s School of Athens up close. It is much larger than I expected and hard to take in all at once. The Chapel was everything I expected, but with a lot more people; we were jammed in shoulder to shoulder. The find of the afternoon was the Old Vatican Library, which was quite interesting, but my camera battery was low, so I was conservative with the pictures.

The bus ride back to the hotel was a disaster. I had to transfer from the 64 to the 62 bus, which took forever to show up. It took about 45 minutes to get from the Pantheon to the Hotel, by which time I was a soaking mess of sweat.

After a few drinks at the “Friends” outdoor café, I walked to the Spanish Steps again. That night there was a protest against the arrest of some Columbian human rights workers, so I joined in. The Columbian community in Rome know how to throw a protest—white flags and opera. The mass of people made the evening. A German woman with good English from Stuttgart offered me some pizza, which was very good. After getting a drink from the fountain, I headed toward Trevi, which is a really hopping spot. The fountain was not working, but the crowds gathered nonetheless. I walked to the nearby Cuba Café for some pizza and beer. The crowds were a lot of fun to watch, so I sat there for an hour and watched them go by.

Rome Pics

I have uploaded a selection of day 1 pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/wgerardp/RomeDay1

July 24, 2007- Day 2

I have found Rome to be an expensive city. One of the few places where I can cut corners is food, so finding cheap/free places to eat is a priority. Luckily breakfast is free at the hotel and unlike the frozen muffins and instant coffee you would find in many US hotel breakfasts, the Gambrinus’ breakfast is real bacon and eggs and some very decent breads and fruits.

I started wandering down the 20th of September St towards the Imperial Forums (that’s Fora for you Latinists out there). On the way I visited the church of St. Susanna (she’s still there). I afterward learned that that church is the place where the Pope stuck Boston’s Cardinal Law when he absolutely fouled up the Boston Archdiocese after the clergy sex abuse scandal. The church is absolutely stunning, however. I struck up a conversation with a priest from NY who was serving as an attendant in the church; a nice enough fellow for a Yankees fan. I also stopped in the Church of St. Andrea. There are just so many beautiful churches in Rome; choices will have to be made if I am going to ever get to the Roman ruins.

The Roman heat is very intense, so I had to stop for a Coke. It is a bit cheaper on this end of the city, but not much. There is an intersection with four fountains (the Four Fountains, imaginatively enough) which is quite impressive on an artistic level—on the practical level as well. You just cannot overestimate the importance of these fountains in keeping people hydrated. The sidewalks, however, are very narrow and dilapidated. They are little more than a curb of badly worn marble.

The first stop along the Imperial Fora was Trajan’s Column and Forum. I paid €11 to get in and except for the sake of saying I was there, there was not much to merit the fee. You can get a good look at the column from the street, although it is currently covered with scaffolding for renovations. There were some interesting architectural fragments and walking through the market was neat, but it is pretty much a hole in the earth with part of a building in the back.

Walking down the Imperial Fora St, you can get a decent look (for free) at the Julian and Augustan Fora. Again, except for some architectural fragments, there is not much left, but you can get a good idea of how impressive they must have been in their prime.

I wandered up the Palatine Hill and looked over the ruins there. I paid €25 to get the “Archeological Ticket” which will get me into various sites in the city. I took a rest at the top of the hill in a little park to reflect a bit. The top of the Palatine is quiet and peaceful. The traffic noise just vanishes as you get up the hill and it is a little oasis of calm in the bustling city. There are even fountains up here, thank god, where I can fill my water bottles and soak my hat. The ruins up here are absolutely magnificent. I decided against the long lines at the Coliseum, which I can visit at my leisure thanks to the Archeological Ticket, but wandered past the Arches of Titus and Vespasian, which are in very good shape.

I walked back to the hotel because of some stomach issues and managed to buy some Imodium at the last open pharmacy in the city. I decided at that point to stick close to my home base to make sure it worked. It did, luckily, but to test it, I did have a few beers at an outdoor café nearby. I basically sat for a few hours and watched humanity pass me by.

Reflections on the day: The Roman churches are absolutely beautiful. The counter-reformation was very effective. There is nothing like them anywhere in the US that I have ever seen. The Fora are in poor shape, but you can get a glimpse at what they must have been like and from what I can imagine, must have been incredible. The serenity of the Palatine was almost spiritual; you could almost imagine you were in the countryside. The excavations are still doing on and the drawing work is still done by hand. The archeologists are not very talkative; they probably look upon the tourists as a distraction. The ruins are everywhere. Even the café I am sitting at is built into the old city walls, near the Porta Pia.

I am feeling a little tired out after all the walking, so I decided to call it a night after the beers and get some sleep.

Arriving in Rome

The following post, and all subsequent posts on Rome, are excerpted from my paper journal. I arrived back in the USA safe and sound on July 31.

I arrived in Rome with little difficulty. The only hassle was the change in the luggage limit to 33 to 20K in Kiev. I was a little bitter about the extra charge, but there was no way around it, except to abandon a good chunk of my cloths at the airport, which I was unprepared to do. The six hour layover seemed interminable, but in the end, I suppose it could have been much worse.

The airport shuttle driver drove me around a bit on the way to the hotel and gave me a good view of the Papal Square. The center of the city is beautiful. I was surprised at the amount of graffiti, however; it is everywhere and on everything.

I am staying at the Hotel Gambrinus, which is very nice. The room is small and the bed is passable. I don’t intend to spend much time there, so that should not matter much.

After settling in at the hotel and a quick dinner at the hotel restaurant (Lasagna Bolognese- the best I ever had!) I went for a late night walk. The first stop was the Spanish Steps, which are stunning. There is a view of St. Peter’s from the top. Huge crowds of people were just hanging out, singing, laughing; you had to maneuver around them to walk down. A fountain at the bottom was very crowded with people drinking and filling water bottles.

From the Steps, I wandered to the Trevi Fountain. The fountain is breathtaking; photos do not do it justice. Again, there are big crowds of people, taking in the sight. The amount of water running from the fountain is amazing, all the more impressive because of its age. The sculpture work is beautifully done, especially how the building melts into the fountain.

From Trevi, I walked to the Tritone Fountain, which was pretty desolate and anticlimactic after the last two stops, but impressive nonetheless.

My general impressions of Rome after a late night walk—Rome is a beautiful city. It is showing a little wear and tear but has a real majesty. There are many public fountains, 4-500 years old, which still work and provide cool, clean water to the tourists and locals. The inscriptions are in Latin, so I will have some practice while I am here.

Finishing up in Luhansk

Once my colleague Mary showed up from the Home Office in Rindge, things got busy, namely because she is a lot of fun to hang out with, and time flew. So I haven’t had a chance to update on how things went for the graduation ceremony.

The students in this year’s program were quite first-rate, and we haven’t had to make use of Irina and Helen as translators, so we had the good fortune to have 4 teachers in a classroom of 20 students. We made some real progress, especially in the first year university students. They all know English, but they needed practice speaking. So, we spent quite a bit of our time on activities where they had to talk without notes. One of the things we noticed off the bat was that when they were working on such activities, they took the time to write out their “lines” and read them out when it was their turn. Happily, by the end of our time, their confidence level was such that they did not need their cheat sheets.

Franklin Pierce’s president, George Hagerty and VP, Ray Van der Riet came for the graduation ceremony and, with them, the dinners began. Every night, we were entertained by various members of Luhansk Pedagogical University’s administration. The hospitality shown by the University was outstanding and we all appreciated their kind words and fellowship.

The graduation ceremony went off without a hitch, although I had the jitters. The student presentations were simply outstanding. One group of students even performed Abbot and Costello’s “Who’s on First” routine, which was a big hit. The mother of one of the girls (Costello) came up to me and thanked me for the great job we did with her daughter. It’s moments like that which make it all worth while.

The next day, we visited a museum dedicated to young Soviet Resistance fighters against the Nazis. It was quite emotional. The displays are very well done and they have numerous artifacts of the young people who gave their lives to stop Germany. Sixteen of the kids (aged 14-22) died by being thrown down a mine shaft. We also visited the spot where they were killed, over which the Soviets put up a beautiful memorial; I really do love Soviet art. Five of the resistance fighters were awarded the honor of “Hero of the Soviet Union” which was the highest honor they could bestow.

One of the highlights of the trip was a picnic organized by one of the Luhansk regional governors. In the morning Ray and I went fishing (actually, we chatted with the governor, while Victor, who is a local businessman did all the fishing) and the rest of the party joined us around 10am. A group of Cossacks joined us, and after some singing and ceremonial vodka drinking, I was made an honorary Cossack by being whipped three times with a horsewhip. It stung, but not too bad. The lead male singer for the Cossacks and I hit it off really well, and we had a good conversation on many topics. There was talk of them visiting Franklin Pierce for the dedication of the Ukrainian Garden, and I hope it works out. I liked these guys.

Since my flight to Rome left at 7am the next morning, we made an early night of it, but I was exhausted anyway. Oksana, my good friend and the Queen of Luhansk Logistics, and Ray say me off at the Luhansk airport for my flight on “Air Coffin” to Kiev, and from there to Rome.

Exploring The City

I have been spending a lot of my free time exploring the city center in more detail. While I had a general idea of the general geography of the central part of the city, I wanted get a feel for the shops and cafes. To do this, I started to take the side streets off of Soviet St. and see what they had to offer.

Soviet St. and its environs are the commercial heart of the city and filled with various casinos and cafes. Much of it, I suspect, is to cater to a growing number of foreign visitors. For instance, one office block is proudly labeled, in English, “Business Center.” The cafes are a tad more expensive, but not radically so. A .5L glass of a local beer will cost 2hr (+25 kopeks for a glass!) while a bottle of Tuborg will cost 5hr in the beer garden. A glass of local brew will cost 7hr and a Stella will set you back 9hr. I have been paying the extra hrivnias to sit in a café as the lighting tends to be better, so I can read.

At one café, across from the Central Square, two young people struck up a conversation with me. Vladimir is a medical school graduate, working to do his residency in the US; Slava is a graduate of Quinnipiac College in CT. Both are natives of Luhansk. They were quite apologetic about disturbing me, but I was happy to chat with them. We discussed politics (US and Ukrainian), the virtues of various US cities (Slava has been to Jim’s in Philly and is a big cheese steak booster), and some suggestions for my trip to Rome. When it was time to leave, they not only bought the beer, but paid for our taxi home. I have Vladimir’s phone number and Slava has my e-mail, and I really hope to catch up with them again.

Across the street is a restaurant/bar that has live music. Apparently, it is known for having good rock n’ roll bands. The band I have heard there (apparently a house band) is very good. Their guitar player in particular can really rock. The downside of this café is the price. A Cuba Libre is 35hr and a Mojito is 39hr, which translates to $7 for a drink, which is not bad for the US, but when compared to the $1 I pay for a .5L of “peeva”, it is pretty steep. Needless to say, I do not frequent this place, but I do like the band.

The biggest find, however, is the imaginatively named Tea-Coffee Café. It serves coffee and tea, as the name implies, and a variety of excellent pastries. It has apparently been there for several years, which means I walked past it dozens of times (my inability to read Russian has made even conspicuously named places impossible to decipher). I would have never figured it out, but I was talking about my coffee problems to my students and one told me about two (!) coffee houses in the Central Square area. The Tea-Coffee Café makes a good latte and is a pretty comfortable place to spend an hour. Last Sunday, Oksana, Irina, Helen, and I went there to review the first week and finalize plans for the second, but instead we just ended up chatting for the most part.

The class has been going pretty well; I have no complaints. This week we discussed US business culture and culminated the week with mock job interviews. I assigned the students a city and company and had them do some organizational research for the interview. One group took Reading, PA’s Penske Corporation, another, Harrisburg, PA’s Harsco Corporation, another took, Lowell, MA’s Joan Fabrics, and the last was assigned Elizabethtown College, near Lancaster, PA. As you will have noticed, I know each of these medium sized cities pretty well and am at least familiar with the companies. This helped me conduct the interviews, but also allowed me to help the students with their organizational research.

Another activity we did, to help the students think on their feet in English, was to take a field trip to the local history museum. Julia and Julianna, two of my “stars” from last year took me there last week, so I had a feel for the place. The students then had to pick one natural history display and one Ukrainian history display and make a presentation. I was impressed by the archeological display and spent some time studying the pottery while the students prepared their presentations. I couldn’t read the descriptions, but Helen and Vadim came over and helped a little. I was shocked to see no Greek pots (although there were several locally produced pieces using Greek designs), but I did notice two pieces of Roman Black Slip ware and a few Roman coins. Vadim seems to think that they were Byzantine, and some certainly were. There was a particularly well preserved denarius of Constantius.

For me, the highlight of these two weeks has been our baseball games. The students are generally unfamiliar with the game, although some Ukrainian universities do have teams. I primed the pump by having the students watch Fever Pitch (we considered Field of Dreams, but decided on a comedy). Then on Saturday, we walked to an old soccer field, I laid out some discarded water bottles for bases, and I assigned the students to teams and positions and we just started to play. We use a rubber ball and a real baseball bat, which makes for some good hitting. Irina borrowed a bat from someone for last week’s game and Oksana bought one for this week. Oksana’s 8 year old son joined us on Saturday, and let me tell you, that kid can play. It was his first baseball game, but he swung like a pro and fielded well. The rest of us did our best and we ended up with a 28-28(!) tie after 3 innings.

Inna, one of my students from last year stopped by to ask for a favor. She wrote a children’s book in English for her daughter and asked me to edit it for her. I am so proud of her job! I hope I can get a copy when it is finally printed up. It is a collection of fairy tales and some comprehension exercises (Her daughter is just starting English this year, in second grade. US schools could learn something I think from the Ukrainian emphasis on foreign languages.).
This afternoon, Oksana and I will be driving to Donetsk to pick up Mary, my teaching partner for the rest of my time here. It will be nice to have an English speaking buddy to hit the cafes with, but it will definitely cut into my reading. Oh, well, I already read the books I brought along and all I have left is some short stories I picked up at a book store in town.

Back in Luhansk

It has been a week since I have arrived in Luhansk, Ukraine, and much like last year, the days have been a blur. I’ll try to give a short synopsis of my trip and my first teaching week, as well as some observations of this city after one year.

There was no drama in the trip as there was last year, thankfully. After the debacle with Air France, I was a little nervous about the prospects of making it all the way to Luhansk with all of my possessions intact. Lufthansa, however, is run like a well oiled machine. I was not able to fly directly out of Boston, so I took a commuter flight to DC (the only hassle was waiting in a line for 1 ½ hours while the United folks found flights for people stranded from a cancelled flight to Denver), but once I got to the front of the line, they were able to check me and my bags directly to Donetsk. Of course, Air France said the same thing.

The flight from DC to Munich was uneventful. The food was not quite as good (served Scotch though!) and I was seated with two high school seniors from Maryland, who were quite nice. One was deathly scared of flying and every time we hit some turbulence, she would ask me if it seemed “normal.” The two girls were part of a tour group organized by one of their teachers and were planning to visit Italy, France, and Spain.

Munich airport is huge, but so well laid out and organized that it is a snap to get around. The shuttles are terminal specific and go directly to the desired area without any detours. I had 45 minutes to get from one plane to another, but in the end I got to my gate, in a completely different building, in less than 20 minutes. The flight to Donetsk was a breeze and I was even a little early.

I was met at the airport by Olena, the head of the foreign languages department, and Oksana, who was my liaison last year. We were all pretty relieved to see each other. After a brief misunderstanding as to where I was to pick up the bags, I blew through customs (they just waived me through) and we were on the road to Luhansk.

Yuri, our driver is a real pro. The construction that was evident last year was completed and the road was in great shape. I was also able to get a good look at the countryside. It reminds me a lot of Lancaster County—rolling hills, lots of farm land, and small towns dotting the roadside. Yuri got us to the University with only minor problems in the rush hour traffic.

Olena and Oksana joined me for dinner at the University Café. There is a whole new batch of students running the café this year, although Gallina still seems to be in charge. The food, once again, is excellent.

This year I have come prepared with a Russian phrasebook. Last year, knowing very little about the local customs, I showed up with a Ukrainian phrasebook, which was useless; Olena said that Ukrainian is like a foreign language in these parts. We are only 50 miles from the Russian border and about 125 miles from Rostov-on-Don, so I guess this makes some sense.

The girls at the café have become my test audience when I want to try out my Russian. They are very, very nice and help me with my pronunciation. They speak very little English, so if I want to talk I have to do it in Russian. Last year I had to make do with pointing and hand gestures. This year I can hold my head up high and say in a loud clear voice, “adin kofye, spesiba” (another cup of coffee please), “kag dyila?” (how are you?) and “dobraye utra” (good morning). I am eternally grateful to them for their patient help. I have been able to communicate reasonably well with complete strangers and have been able to order lunch at a restaurant, and even search for a baseball bat (or the moral equivalent) at a whole series of stores and kiosks.

The students in my class this year are very good. Last year we had some outstanding students and some who spoke very little English. This year we have the middle. The nice thing is that we have had to use no Russian in class. Irina (one of my partners from last year) and Helen (who replaced Natasha, who went to further her studies in Kiev) have been excellent partners. We have a very good working relationship and their knowledge of language pedagogy is outstanding.

This year’s program is featuring elements of “American Culture” as a vehicle for learning the language. This week we have been concentrating in US history. We’ll also have units on business culture, literature, and cinema. I am able to give a basic 1 hour lecture without a translator and the discussions that we have held afterwards have been very good. For instance, today, after lecturing on WWI and WWII, the students wanted to discuss the moral consequences of Hiroshima. As an added bonus, one of the students is one of the University’s history professors, so he and I have to be careful not to get too theoretically technical for the other students.

Today is Constitution Day in Ukraine, sort of like our 4th of July. I was impressed that all but two students made it to class, which is a testament to their dedication. Except for the security guards, we were the only people on campus. As I right this, I can here the fireworks downtown.

As for my observations—Luhansk seems to be continuing to grow. Many new buildings are being built around campus; there have been renovations to many of the University buildings. I have noticed that there seems to have been a small increase in prices, but nothing drastic. There does seem to have been a process of consolidation in the beer garden industry, however. I want to investigate whether this is because they went out of business or that the city is getting stricter with permits.

All in all, Luhansk is a pretty pleasant place to be. In my next report, I’ll discuss the discovery of a real live coffee shop in the heart of Luhansk.

Alive and Well

I made it into Luhansk with no problems. I'm in the process of reaclimating myself to the new climate and time zone. There is also some last minute preperation to do for the opening of the Luhansk Summer English Institute on Monday.

You can exprect a full update in a few days, including the story of how I have managed to communicate in Russian

Horace, Epode 2

Here is my translation of Horace's second Epode; let me know what you think.

“Happy is he who avoids the rat race, like the ancient race of mortals, cultivates his ancestral lands with cows, free from debt, who’s neither a soldier, roused by the cruel trumpet, nor dreading the wrathful sea, nor living at the Forum and the haughty thresholds of more powerful men.

“So, when the shoots of his vines mature, he weds them to tall poplars, or in a remote vale, he watches the wanderings of the bellowing flocks, and removing useless boughs with a pruning hook, he replaces them with fruitful ones, or he pours pressed honey into clean amphoras, or he shears the timorous sheep; or maybe, as Autumnus rises from the field, his head garlanded with ripe fruit, how happy he is picking the grafted pear or the purple dyed grape, with which to honor you, Priapus, and you, Father Sylvanus, protector of boundaries.

“It sometimes pleases him to lie under the ancient holm oak, sometimes in the firm grass; the waters gliding between the tall banks of the river, the birds making plaintive sounds in the woods, the waters of the stream make a noise that invites light slumber.

“What’s more, as the Wintry season readies the rain and snow of Thundering Jove, he here and there presses the brisling wild boar with many hounds into the hindering hunting nets, or stretches out loose nets on smooth poles, a devise for greedy thrushes, and captures the trembling hare and the foreign crane with his snare, a great catch.

“Amongst all this, who cannot forget the evil cares of love? So if a chaste woman helps with her share of the house and the sweet children (such as a Sabine, or a nimble, sunburned, Apulian wife), who builds up the sacred hearth fires with well-seasoned wood for her tired man’s return, who corrals the fat cattle in wicker fences, who drains their distended udders, and pours this years sweet wine from the jar, who prepares the homemade sacrificial feast, neither Lucrinian mussels, turbot, nor parrotfish would please me more; if Winter, raging the eastern waves, turns them toward this sea, neither Numidian Guinea Fowl nor Ionian Grouse will descend into my guts.

“It’s better picking olives from the richest branches of the tree, or the meadow loving sorrel and the healthy mallows for a sick body, or the lamb killed for the Boundary Feast, or a kid saved from the wolf.

“Between holy days, it is pleasing to watch the pastured sheep hurry home and tired oxen drag the inverted plow by their languid necks, and see the home-born slaves, proof of a prosperous home, gathered around the shining Lares.”

This spoke Alfius the Moneylender, “Now, now, I am about to be a farmer.”
He called in his loans on the Ides and is trying to re-lend the money on the Kalends.

Catullus 101

For a change of pace, let's do some Catullus. I have always considered this one of the most beautiful poems I have read, in any language. This translation dates to the early 1990's, during my undergraduate days at Temple University. I've tweeked it several times over the years.

Catullus 101
Tr. William Parsons
Carried through many lands and many seas,
I have come, brother, to this sad grave
so I may give to you the final offices of the dead
and to speak in vain to your voiceless ashes.
Alas, since Fortune has unfairly taken
you away from me,
now accept, under these circumstances,
these sad gifts, the ancient custom of our parents,
flowing with brotherly tears,
and now and forever, hale and farewell.

Horace, Epode 1

A sneak preview of my translations of Horace's Iambi. Comments are welcome.

I.

Friend, you are going in a Liburtine galley among the ship’s tall ramparts, prepared, Maecenas, to undergo all of Caesar’s dangers yourself.

What about us, whose life will be sweet if you survive and loathsome if you don’t? Should I pursue leisure, as you order, which is not pleasant when I am not together with you, or should I be ready to suffer this ordeal with iron will, which seems to be a job for real men?

We will endure; I will follow you, whether through Alpine ridges and the inhospitable Caucasus, or the farthest hole in the West, bound to you with a strong heart.

What help would I be to your labors, you ask, with my unwarlike manner and weak constitution?

If I am a fellow traveler, I will be in less fear, because those who are absent fear more; just as the mother hen fears the gliding of the serpent near her unfledged chicks more when they are not near, though she could bring no more help to them if they were.

I will serve willingly as a soldier in this, or any, war in the hope of your thanks, not for more gifts; my ploughs are already strained by a line of bullocks.

Neither do I wish for a herd that moves from a Calabrian pasture to Lacana against the summer’s heat, nor for a glittering villa touching the Circaen walls of high lying Tusculum.

Your generosity enriches me, enough and more. I have no desire to gather riches, either to bury it in the ground like greedy Chremes or squander it like a prodigal son.

The Matrix Cafe

While wandering down Soviet Street, I noticed a little café tucked in between a convenience kiosk and what appeared to be a swanky, upscale restaurant. The name, Matrix Café, peaked my interest and I was a weary from a long walk around the downtown, so I asked what appeared to be a manager smoking outside if they served coffee. After dancing around the language barrier, I determined that they did indeed serve coffee and decided to take a chance on it.

The café is in the basement of the building, I assume directly under the swanky restaurant. The further down the steps, the hotter it got and I began to wonder if it was worth it. The main doorway to the café is at the bottom of the steps, next to a full sized movie poster of the original Matrix movie. Luckily I stayed at it, and my daring was rewarded.

Once inside, the air conditioning kicked in and the first thing I noticed was an espresso machine. I walked up to the bar and the bartender began speaking in Russian, but he understood “latte.” He offered me a seat at the bar or at a table. I chose the table, which was glass. The table is surrounded by couches that were quite comfortable. The décor of the café is patterned after the Matrix movies, with ersatz humans hooked up to the matrix, slip plate floors and intricately textured plaster walls. The matrix “code” is also visible through several view screens/windows.

The latte was excellent. It cost 9 hrivnias (about $1.75), which was less than the cup of sludge I got at the other café, but considerably more expensive than beer. Even imported beer only costs about 5hr per bottle (about a dollar). I normally drink Tuborg Gold, which goes for 4.50, while Stella Artois, the Italian beer, goes for about 5.50. While Ukraine is known for vodka, it appears that it is drunk only on social occasions, while beer is ubiquitous.

My students tell me that the Matrix Café is a very popular late-night spot for young people to go to after the clubs close. I am told that the food is excellent and I can tell you from personal experience that the service is top notch. The waitresses do not speak English, but there is a bi-lingual menu, so I have been able to get what I need (coffee!) without incident. There is even a call button on each table to get the waitress’ attention if you need her. Club music is playing over several speakers, although they sometimes turn it off if something is interesting on the TV. On Sunday morning, for instance, I watched “Pirates of the Caribbean” in Russian.

Mary (my colleague from Franklin Pierce College) and I have been there several times and it is now our café away from home. If you get to Luhansk, I recommend the Matrix Café without hesitation. It is located about 2 blocks from the corner of Soviet and Defense Streets, heading toward the Central Square. The Café is open 24 hours, but late night (early morning) will be filled with clubbers wanting to continue the party. The afternoons and early evenings were relatively quiet.

Time to Answer Your Questions

Maria asked if a different brewing system is used in making coffee.

I asked around and found that most people prefer instant, as they believe that there is a lower caffeine content. It is possible to buy beans and ground coffee, but it seems most people prefer instant. I believe that the comments about alternative filtering systems are right on the mark though; I found beans, but no filters. I would have to estimate, however, that 90% of the shelf space at the Russia Market and the Metapom Market are devoted to instant. There is, however, a tremendous selection of teas, most of it loose, much of it herbal.

Ray asked if church attendance may be higher in Luhansk than other regions.

I honestly cannot say. But while the chapel was quite full, there could not have been more than 100 people there in a city of more than a half million. There are several smaller churches in the area, however. I am told that, like in America, attendance spikes at Christmas and Easter. The observation that mostly middle aged and older people go to church is confirmed by my sources, including one of my students, who I saw at one of the smaller churches. I believe that my comment on the failure of the Soviet authorities to effectively discourage religion comes from the fact that there was/is a rather extensive religious infrastructure in place. While the Cathedral is new, the seminary is not; if I had to guess, it is about 40 years old, placing the building and the chapel squarely in the Soviet era. One of the smaller churches I visited is between the corner of Defense and Soviet Streets and the town square, placing it right in the middle of the most prime real estate in the city. Again, that church was almost definitely built during Soviet times.

This also comes to the point that Susan made about the Russian Orthodox Church. I do wonder if the Soviets were more tolerant of religious activity in the republics. The chanting, buy the way, was mesmerizing; she knows how much I love chant ;-)

I was fascinated by Rick’s comments on Chernobyl. I suspect that there may have been some harassment, but that the type of interference that we hear about with China and the Catholic Church did not exist. But that is based on the assumption that there was some logic to the Soviet policy; why control something you officially condemn? Perhaps I give them too much credit.

Kate made mention of Dunkin Donuts.

While it is sorely missed on a personal level, it is very refreshing to be in a place where there are no McDonalds, Burger Kings, or any sort of corporate/standardized chain stores. The stores on the commercial street seem to be rather small concerns (except the Metro store) and they are very concerned with customer service. There is an attendant at most of the counters (bakery, candy) and I have never seen a line longer than 1 customer, as they have 7 or 8 registers open every time I have been in. As a matter of fact, there seems to be a burgeoning “kiosk” culture, where small entrepreneurs set up shop in the larger markets or directly on the street. But if someone opened a coffee shop, say like The Last Drop in Philly, or Brew'd Awakening in Lowell, I suspect they would make a killing, as long as they also catered to the reduced caffeine market.

Linda asked if I could send a post card.

I would love to, if I can find one. I have looked and just have not been able to find any. I will ask around. Perhaps Luhansk is not considered a “tourist” center. The Post Office even sells greeting cards, but no post cards. I will bring in pictures, though. I think the kids would get a kick out of some of them.

Denise asked about the cultural life, especially the ballet.

The University has a fantastic arts facility and while I was there, they were practicing ballet. The instructor seemed very strict. No one I have talked to about cultural life has mentioned the ballet, but they are all musicians who like to talk about the Philharmonic Society, which they say is quite good. Everything is closed for the summer, and I can’t blame them, it is horribly hot. I will ask around some more.

This just in, there is a ballet troupe that performs at the Ukrainian Theater, but it is not a very big operation. There are smaller schools, but nothing major.

Rick also mentioned the difference between what our perceptions were of the Soviets and how they are perceived here.

I have had quite a few conversations on the subject with my colleagues and students. They are quite open to talking about it. Let me emphasize that no one wants to go back to the way things were. They are glad the Soviet Union has ended and are happy to be part of the market economy. That being said, they also realize, probably better that Americans do, the limits of the market. The Soviet Union provided a modicum of stability and predictability to peoples’ lives. One of my informants called it security. When that is taken away, some people like to wax romantic about the past, despite the fact the complained about it during the time. I am told that many older people do just that. The young are indifferent.

Suffice it to say, our perceptions of the Soviets were always clouded by the political conflict between our nations, and like any perceptions based in fear, they are many times a little distorted. They were not horrible monsters (with a few exceptions, such as Stalin), nor were they the answer to all the world’s problems. Most of the Soviet people were just like us, trying to make a living and taking care of their families the best way they could.

There seems to be a real optimism about the future here, and I wish them all the best as they try to make their way through it.

Big News!!!- I found a cafe where I can get decent Latte. Expect a full review in the future.

If you have any other questions, please let me know.

Settling into a Routine

It has been quite a while since I have had a little time to discuss how things are going, as I am staying very busy, which is a good thing. In this installment, I’d like to discuss my daily routine, and some of the things I have seen and done in my free time.

Those of you who know me well, know that I am a creature of habit; once I find a routine I stick to it, unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise. I seem to have fallen into a routine here, based around my teaching and meal schedule, which would be hard to break, even if I wanted to. But I have no complaints, and if I have to work in a place where my knowledge of the language is pretty limited, Luhansk is a pretty congenial place to do it.

I try to get up at 6 or so every morning and review my teaching plans for the day. When teaching multilevel classes, it is imperative to have activities ready for all levels. I was under the impression when I arrived that most students’ experience in English would be pretty low. I was very quickly disabused of that illusion. Most of my students have had some formalized English instruction and quite a few actually work as translators. So I have to make sure all my ducks are in a row when I walk into my classroom.

I have all of my meals at the University café, which is a student run “mini” restaurant where Hotel/Restaurant Management students have their practicum. Ukrainian food tends to be “stick to your ribs” meals, and I have to say, I have grown quite fond of it. Breakfast tends to be a smaller meal, but not insubstantial. It is served either hot or cold. The staples seem to be chicken, fish, cheese, and eggs. For example, my first breakfast consisted of shredded chicken in a butter/cream sauce topped with cheese and baked. Let me tell you, I thought I died and went to heaven. Sometimes they give me a seafood/egg salad, which is also quite good.

There is also generally a side dish of cucumber and tomato slices, or, as a special treat a smoked sausage. The tomatoes are of a different variety than I am used to in the US, and are a bit sweeter. I don’t normally eat tomatoes, but with a little salt these are not so bad. The smoked sausage tastes exactly like Lebanon Bologna, which of course brings back childhood memories. It is slightly different, however; Lebanon Bologna tends to be larger in diameter and a little less fatty. It tastes just the same though.

No one seems to brew coffee here; it seems to be all instant. I couldn’t even find coffee filters in the supermarket, although the appliance store did sell coffeepots. With breakfast, I get a small cup of instant, which is OK. I have decided to make it my quest here to find a really good cup of coffee.

After my 7:15 breakfast, I have to walk to the University. It is only a couple of hundred yards, and I get there in plenty of time for my 8:00 class. There is a “Nescafe” coffee machine in the lobby, and I can get a decent, but very small instant latte for about 25 cents. There is a concession stand in the lobby as well, where students can buy pastries, juice and water. The lady there knows me and we can negotiate buying a couple bottles of water reasonably easily. Most water here is sparkling mineral water; I am getting used to it. You have to drink quite a bit to stay hydrated in this heat.

Class usually consists of giving a lesson, reviewing vocabulary, and practice, practice, practice. My morning translator, Natasha is a great partner and has been a big help. Her English is immaculate and she is very good about making sure the students without English experience understand my instructions. The AM class has a very high proportion of advanced English speakers; what they seem to want and need most of all is a native speaker who will work on the finer points of conversation with them. These students are also very good about helping the basic students.

I have an hour for lunch, so I walk back to the café and have “dinner.” The afternoon meal is the major meal of the day in Ukraine, and it is very big and filling. I am always served soup first. Mostly this is a chicken/egg soup, although I have had a lamb stew and borsht, which is a vegetable and beat soup served with sour cream. There is also a meat and vegetable dish. If the meat is not stuffed into something (crepe, pepper, cabbage) it is smothered in a sauce. These seem to be butter or cheese based. The stuffed cabbage tasted just like gulunkies, which my Mom made sometimes; instead of a tomato sauce, something akin to French dressing is used in Ukraine. I can hardly finish this meal.

In the afternoon class, we do things the same way, except I have Irina for a helper and translator. Like Natasha, her English is immaculate and I just couldn’t survive without her.

The theme of this week’s class was talking about ourselves to people. We used mock job interviews to do this and the students also developed English language resumes. This was also a sneaky way to get their backgrounds, which helped me tremendously to know what their needs and interests are. I have doctors, lawyers, policemen, university professors, and people who just graduated from high school. I also have a large number of the music faculty. One fellow is an organ player, who was telling me about playing Hayden’s organs, including his personal one in his home. I will have to hook him up with my friend David who is also an organ player.

After the students leave for the day, they let me stay in the lab to check my FPC e-mail; I can’t read it at the internet café I have been using. The lab closes at five, but the attendants graciously let me use it for a little while.

Depending on when I get out of the lab, I will go to my room to relax or go straight to the café for dinner. Dinner is a smaller meal, generally consisting of a meat or fish dish and a simple dessert. In desserts they use a sweetened cream cheese that tastes just like cheese cake.

After dinner, I will walk to the Internet Café, which is in a concourse under the intersection of Defense and Soviet Sts. Most of the stations are taken up by young men playing video games. They seem to take it very seriously. After checking my personal e-mail, I have to check on the classes I am teaching online, the History of Art and US History Since 1945. As is generally the case, these classes are pretty laid back, and I read over the student responses to my questions and monitor discussions.

After checking my classes, I walk to the beer garden and have a beer and read my book. They have gotten to know me at the Garden, so it makes life much easier to get things accomplished there. I have been drinking Tuborg Gold, from Denmark, which was the only brand I could pronounce. The women who work there are very nice and I think they put on a CD of classic rock songs for my benefit last night. They normally play Russian pop.

On Saturday, the students came to class and each of the English Department faculty I have been working with (Oksana, Natasha, and Irina) took a group of students while the 4th group listened to my lecture on the history of the US. After about 45 minutes, we switched groups. Most of the students took some US history in high school, but their knowledge was pretty basic. They seemed to like the lecture and we were able to have some discussion on it. We also made some decisions on our final production. One inventive young lady suggested that we do an act from Shaw’s Pygmalion, and then went on about how appropriate it would be for this group!

After class Saturday, I had the rest of the weekend free. After a nap, I walked to the central market, but it was closing up. So I wandered the back streets around the market until I found my way back to the University.

After my usual evening routine, I stopped by what seemed to be a bar/restaurant and thought I might get a decent cup of coffee. Instead, I got the absolute worst cup I have ever had in my life. When the waitress brought it out, it was in a larger cup (a good sign), but it was dark and I really couldn’t see what it looked like. Then I took a sip. It was crunchy. It had the viscosity of 5W-30 that was run 10,00 miles, then sat in the oil pan for a year. It sort of tasted like coffee-- that much was certain-- but that was all that could be said for it. I choked it down as best as I could and there was a gritty sludge about a quarter inch deep in the bottom of the cup. Yuck. I asked for the check and it came back at almost 11hr. which is the equivalent of about $2, which was wildly overpriced for a cup that size, even if it was actually really good coffee. No wanting to make waves, I handed the lady 15hr, to which she only gave me 2hr change. I guess she wanted to make sure she got a tip. When I got back to my room, I had to floss to get the sludge out of my teeth.

I woke up very early on Sunday, and couldn’t fall back to sleep, so I decided to walk to the Orthodox Cathedral and catch the service. Big mistake. By car it seems pretty close; you can even see it from the University. But I think that’s because it is so big. It took me a half hour to walk there, by which time I was late. The service was quite beautiful, even if I could not understand a thing the priests said. The service was not held in the cathedral, but in a chapel in the seminary, which is right next door. The icons were much older, as far as I could tell, and there was a particularly beautiful one of Christ next to the door, which people would kiss as they entered and exited.

The chapel was reasonably full. There are no chairs or pews, so everybody stands. The priests stand mostly with their backs to the congregation, sort of like the Catholics did before Vatican II. There were not many young people, but there were a few. We were always taught that the Soviets discouraged religion, but it seems that they were unsuccessful. Indeed the vast majority of people grew up in the Soviet era. It is the young people, those who are growing up in the new market economy that are not going to church. This is not either good or bad, but it is interesting how our impressions of the Soviets were wrong in some respects.

I played it smart on the way home and took a cab. Best 10hr I ever spent.

In the morning I did some work on class and napped, then after lunch went back to the central market. It was open this time, and I have to say, the place is a labyrinth. The market is a series of stalls spread over about 4 city blocks. Several of the areas have been recently renovated with canopies, new paving blocks, and lockable steel stalls. Much of the older section is still wood.

The stalls sell everything from motor scooters to intimate apparel. There seems to be some organizing principle, i.e. you don’t have motor scooter stalls next to the shoe stall. But other than general categories, everything is pretty well mixed up. Unlike a flea market in the US, the market only sells new products (auto parts are the only exception I have found). I was a little disappointed, as I wanted to find some traditional Ukrainian crafts to buy for friends back home. But it was fun walking around. I did find the woodworker Natasha introduced me to and I bought a carved box for 35hr, and if you see it, you'll know it is worth every penny. I did run into a coin dealer near the pet stalls (kittens and puppies) and bought a 50th anniversary medallion of the Soviet Revolution, and a three penny piece from Nickolas I.

All in all, it wasn’t a bad day. But I didn’t get much rest either!

BillblogX

Getting Around Luhansk


Over the last three days I’ve had the opportunity to explore the city a little, and I have to say that I am now pretty comfortable with the area around the University. In this installment, I will talk a bit about the University and the surrounding neighborhood.

Luhansk University’s main campus facilities are on Defense Street, the battle line between the Soviets and Nazis in WWII. The area was almost completely destroyed in the battle for the city, so most of the surrounding area is pretty new, with no buildings older than 60 years. Most of the architecture is in the utilitarian style of the Soviet area, with the usual wear and tear associated with buildings of that age. From what I have been able to see of the interiors, however, a lot of effort has been made to make them comfortable and homey.

The University buildings are newer and in a more modern style. I am told that extensive renovations were begun about 8 years ago under the current president and much effort has been made to modernize the facilities. I will be teaching in one of the two main buildings. It has a large central staircase leading up to the four floors. For the most part, I will be in one of the computer labs on the second floor. The arts building, which is not on the main campus, is much older in the more traditional Soviet formal style, having served as a cultural center for workers. There is a beautiful painting on the rotunda showing a scene where workers and party faithful greet each other. Back in the Soviet days, they would put a big Christmas tree in the rotunda and invite all the children of the city to a party and give each a present. That’s a side of the Soviets we never learned about in school.

One of the first things I noticed was that most rooms and hallways did not have their lights on. This is, no doubt, to keep the heat level as low as possible. As I have learned from hard experience, the weather in Luhansk swings wildly between the extremes. In the winter, -40۫۫ C is not uncommon, while in the summer, 40۫۫, such as we have had in the last several days, is normal.

Air conditioning is a relatively new phenomenon, and to have an air conditioner installed can take up to a week, as demand is very high. Luckily, my classroom is one of the rooms that has it. The technology in my lab, and, from what I can tell, across the University is very good. The language default on the computers is Russian, however, so you have to be very careful what buttons you push. Luckily, everything is in the same place as the US version of Windows, so it is just a matter of remembering where everything is.

The feel of the campus is much like Temple, a large urban university in the middle of a large city. With 20,000 students, it is comparable in size to most large US institutions, although almost all are gone for the summer. Unlike Temple’s main campus, there is tremendous effort put into the grounds. Landscape Design students have built a beautiful botanic garden with a grant from the EU. There is also a sculpture garden with pieces excavated by the archeology department. These peaces are from the pre-Ukrainian people who populated the area 3,000 years ago. Archeologists here are working on the meaning of the works, which were found in small artificial hills, or tumuli, which were not, however, exclusively associated with graves.

The neighborhood around the University is a commercial district, with shops, hotels and casinos all along the street. All of this has developed since the collapse of the Soviet Union. It is almost like Walnut St. in Center City Philly, but with many more kiosks. Here you can purchase snacks and drinks, including beer, which you can drink as you walk around. The streets are filled with people, some shoppers, some couples, and parents talking their children for a walk or bike ride. I have noticed that people do not make eye contact, but will talk to you if you ask for help. Most people have a very basic knowledge of English, which has been a big help to me.

I have been on a few excursions around the city with Oksana, the Asst. Department Head of the Foreign Languages Department, and Irina and Natalia, two of the faculty members. Our driver, Yuri is a master of Luhansk traffic; the drivers here are very aggressive. You have to be very careful crossing the street, as cars will pop out of nowhere and rarely deign to acknowledge your presence. All of them have been very kind and generous with me. Oksana’s sister was getting married this weekend, so Irina took me around to the city on Saturday and Natalia on Sunday, when we also took a quick trip out of the city. All of them were indispensable in getting money changed and finding international phones.

We went around and looked at the monuments, both Soviet and Post-Soviet. All of the statues of Lenin, except for one have been removed. The last one was saved in the interests of history. There are several monuments to Soviet generals and many to the veterans of WWII, all of which are quite touching, especially a new monument along Soviet Street (no one seems to care enough to change the name). About 30 km from the city, there is a monument to the Ukrainian Rus who chased away an invading Mongol army in the 7th century on the site where archeologists believe the battle to have taken place.

I also visited the home of Vladimir Dal, the great lexographer of the Russian language, who was a native of Luhansk, sort of like a Ukrainian Dr. Johnson. On the central square of the city, there is also a monument to the Ukrainian national poet, which replaced one of the statues of Lenin. We passed by the monument to the rescue workers who died helping the victims of Chernobyl.

The city is very green. I am told that this is odd for this time of the year. The hot, dry climate of the region usually kills the grass and defoliates the trees by now, but an unusual rainy spell about two weeks ago gave the city a brief reprise. By the time I leave in early August, the trees will have lost their leaves. The hot and dry climate also produces a lot of dust, and as there is usually a strong breeze blowing, it gets everywhere.

At night, the city is just as busy as during the day. I feel very safe on the streets, which are still very busy, and I find a long walk after dinner to be very relaxing. I have been going to the beer garden after dinner to relax a bit. The garden is in a park, and children are around us playing. There are several stray dogs that live in the park and beg for food. One inventive mutt walks up to tables and starts bouncing to the beat of the music that is playing. That dog has rhythm, let me tell you, and he gets a lion’s share of the handouts. There is a pack of about 3-4 dogs there, and they seem to do quite well.

The central market is a maze of stands where you can buy everything from local vegetables to books, and anything else you can think of. I had the chance to chat (through Natalia, of course) with a local woodworker who sells hand carved boxes and wall hangings. The carvings are in the eastern European folk style and quite good. He seemed to appreciate the compliments I made.

All in all, I don’t believe I will lack in things to do here in Luhansk. I am told there is a good philharmonic society and choral society, a good organ somewhere, and Ukrainian and Russian theater, but they are all closed for the season. That’s a shame, but between work and wandering the streets, I’m sure that there’s more than enough to keep me out of trouble.

BillblogX

The Road to Luhansk

I knew that getting to Luhansk would be a long and tiring journey; I was taken aback by the details, however. It’s a long story, but I’ll try to make it as simple as possible.

Getting to Logan was actually pretty easy. My driver seemed to know the ins and outs of the business, so it was smooth sailing. And despite the formidable line at the Air France terminal, it moved pretty quickly. The only glitch was that the woman could not check me through to Donetsk; I would have to do that in Paris and Kiev. No problem, though, I could check in at the gate. (Keep that statement in mind.) By 5pm I was checked in and ready to go for the 7:50 flight, cold beer in hand, and enjoying a decent French Dip sandwich. All in all, it was not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

The troubles started when the flight was delayed by a half hour, not bad by any standard, but a concern as I only had one and one half hours to transfer planes in Paris. The woman at the gate assured me that one hour was more than enough time to do what I had to do, since I could check in at the gate.

The flight to Paris was rather nice, a bit cramped, but comfortable. I do have to give Air France credit, however. The food was excellent. If you remember the Jimmy Buffet song, “He Went to Paris,” and the line, “French wine and cheeses put his ambition at bay,” you’ll know what I mean. Great dinner and great snacks. And don’t forget the wine and cheese. They were very good.

This was the end of the pleasant aspect of Air France.
Once we got on the ground, we disembarked in the middle of some runway and loaded onto shuttles where we driven to Gate E. From there we had to walk to some point I am assuming was on the opposite side of the building. The signs said that we were going to Terminal B, but what they really meant was that we were going to the shuttle for Terminal B.

Charles De Gaul Airport is shaped like a figure 8, with one end open. It is architecturally interesting and visually stunning. There is a lot of construction and renovation work going on, but it is not destroying the over all effect. But while it is nice to look at, it is a disaster to get around.

The Terminal shuttle literally drives around the outside of the building, in a big circle, picking people up and dropping them off, but only in designated areas, One guy I was standing next to watched his plane board and leave while we were stuck in traffic 10 feet from the drop off area. Needless to say, he was bitter.

Paris traffic is supposedly legendary, and if the example of the shuttle busses at the airport is any indication, it makes the Big Dig and the Schuylkill Expressway look like walks in the park. It took 45 minutes to get from Terminal D to Terminal B and I got to the gate at precisely 10:00, a whole 5 minutes before takeoff of my flight to Kiev, plenty of time, considering I was told in Boston I could check in at the gate.

I suppose it would have been enough time if I could have gotten to the gate, but the “gate keeper” wouldn’t let me near it to check in, and instead told me to go to the Air Algeria counter for reasons neither I not the fellow at the counter could understand. She then told me to go to the main Air France counter and join the other 50 or so people with the same problem.

After quick calls to my wife and Ray (FPC Dean of Graduate and Professional Studies) to inform them of the situation, I stood in line for about one and one half hours, while the friendly, but not particularly helpful Air France people found flights and hotels for people. One poor Bulgarian woman, a nurse working in South Africa, was literally in tears over the situation. Most people were just bitter and angry, as they missed the next connection, and the one after that.

I had thought I had a tremendous stroke of luck when I finally talked to somebody and he told me I would be on a flight that was leaving in three hours. Better yet, my luggage would be there waiting for me. Quick e-mails to Ray and Oksana, my contact in Luhansk, another quick call to my wife and then spent some time hanging out with Tim from Seattle who had the same problems I had. Lunch was a delicious “sausage” (salami) baguette sandwich and a Coke, courtesy of the people at Air France, and a latte. Right on time we were on the way to Kiev and things were looking up.

On the flight I met two interesting folks. Bill is a plumber from New Jersey turned book agent, who just got a deal on a book on understanding eastern European women. I don’t think I’ll be reading the book any time soon, but I did get some good plumbing advice. The other fellow was a NCIS agent who had an assignment in Kiev. I forgot his name, but he was a nice enough guy, though.

I was rather surprised at the size of Kiev airport. It is quite small, but that is a good thing. Luggage claim was a disaster, mostly because my luggage wasn’t there, nor a good deal of the people’s on the flight. Since I only had an hour, I played my cards smart, did not commiserate with the other passengers, and headed right for the lost and found. (First in line, folks!) We found the cases in Paris and since I had a connecting flight in ½ hour, the woman walked me through customs and off I went.

Remember I said Kiev Airport is small, but it is very well organized. I did have to leave the building to walk to the domestic terminal, but after sitting and waiting all day, it was a nice chance to stretch my legs and hustle. The check in was lightning fast and off I was again to Donetsk, where Oksana was waiting for me, apparently much longer than either of us planned.

I had e-mailed Oksana and Ray called, but she hadn’t gotten the message in time so she sat in the car with out driver for an extra three hours. She spotted me right away, and I’m not sure who was more relieved, her or me. The ride to the University was interesting. There was not much to see along the road at night, but it was fascinating to watch the driver negotiate the roads, which ranged from 2-4 lanes.

Oksana took me to the café for breakfast, and I have to say I am now a big fan of Ukrainian food. At some point I will write on this in detail, but let it suffice to say, I will not be losing any weight on this trip.

Most of the morning was spent working on the technology aspect of the class I will be teaching. The computers in the lab and the AV equipment are top notch, so no problems there. The only issue was that we could not load some audio from outside web sites, but we had fun “codek hunting” (and Barbara, you know how much fun that is).

Oksana and Victor, head of the Earth Sciences department (he called it geography, but the English meaning does not do them justice), took me through a tour of the building and grounds. They have a series of natural history museums which is quite fascinating. Luhansk is geologically very interesting, and most of the stuff in the museums is local and all of it collected by students and faculty in the university.

After lunch I had a meeting with the Acting President of the University to exchange greetings and go over some last minute details. The University’s President was elected to Parliament and is in Kiev until his term is over. Both men are well liked and respected and for good reason. It is under their watch that the major growth of the university is taking place. As I learn more about the university, I will write some more on the subject.

I had to go shopping for some cloths to tide me over until my bags get here, so we went to the moral equivalent of a Sam’s Club, called Metro. It sold bulk quantities of things like Sam’s, but did not have the warehouse feel. It was more like a big supermarket where you can buy milk and motor scooters in one place. Oksana and her husband were indispensable in getting me what I needed.

After dinner I took a walk around the neighborhood and checked out the “Russia” supermarket and the beer garden set up in a park. The park has some monuments to WWII soldiers, which are quite beautiful in the severe Soviet style. There is also a broken fountain which must have been absolutely stunning when it worked. But now it is a nice place for parent to take kids to ride their bikes and young people were hanging out playing guitars, which was quite nice.

BillblogX

Quick Update

I am alive and well. I arrived last night at midnight and immediately crashed. Today we are taking care of business and meeting people, which is very fun, but the heat takes a lot out of you. It must me pushing 100!

Expect a longer and detailed post in a day or so, when I explain how I am in Luhansk and my luggage is in Paris.

BillblogX

Hello, everyone. As you all know, I'll be living in Ukraine for a month, and I'm just about ready to go. It's just a matter of details at this point, so I'm just getting a bit crazy tring to get it all together. I hope to post regularly to the blog and even post some pictures. I guess it all depends on the speed of the internet connection over there. Next time you hear from me, it'll be from Luhansk, Ukraine.